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[技术] 科纳尔的拖网渔船建造

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 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:42:36 | 显示全部楼层
Expansion Tank

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

My main engine is cooled with a keel cooler welded to the hull. Because coolant will expand as it warms up to operation temperature, I needed to give the coolant a place to go without building pressure on the system and causing the fill cap to burp off coolant.
The expansion tank is at the highest elevation of the cooling system. This will allow me to get air out of the system and also use the expansion tank as the fill point for the cooling system. I made the tank out of a 12" piece of thin walled pipe. Welding a place for the pressurized fill cap, end caps, mounting brackets, level check sight glass, connector fitting on the bottom, and drain fitting on the bottom plus and extra fitting on top was all it took to make the tank. Well I might as well throw in finding the pipe, getting the pipe, cutting the pipe, cutting the end caps, fabricating the fill neck and mounting brackets, air testing, sand blasting, and painting. Now that I think of it, building the expansion tank was a pain in the ass, and if I had to put a pencil to it, I'd say I have 12 hours in it. I could have purchased one for a dump truck for about $250.00 but given my nature of tripping over a dollar to save a dime, I decided to fabricate mine.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I Installed a sight glass in the tank to make checking fluid level easy. Due to height constraints, peering down the fill cap would be difficult, a dip stick would be a pain in the ass, so the sight glass, hands down, is the way to go.
I built the tank a couple of years ago, and now that I have the engine room finished sheathed, I can go ahead and permanently mount the tank. I was able to make the permanent connections to the keel cooler from the engine, and also all the connections to the expansion tank.
I mounted the tank to the bulkhead by using studs welded to the framing. I messed up on one set in regard to how far the studs projected and ending up having to use couplings on the studs then bolting the tank to the coupling. I wanted every part of the tank to be higher than the engine coolant tank, and while I was cutting it close, all the elevations worked out fine. The street 90 at the bottom of the tank is 3/4" higher than the street 90 in the engine.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

Oh how nice it is to finally see projects going from the shop shelves to their final resting spot on the boat.

 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:45:11 | 显示全部楼层
Detour

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I've got to take a little detour on the yacht build to take care of some other business. Spring has for sure sprung in my neck of the woods, and work on the yard and work on our 28' cruiser is demanding my time.
The boating season officially opens this weekend as this is when my contract begins on my harbor space. Our plastic cruiser boat is a 1977 Carver that I restored about eight years ago. Late last season, we had a catastrophic failure of the gimbal ring on the TRS drive, and it's a little past time that I get working on it.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I bought a used transom assembly off of Ebay that I am going to re build. Yesterday, I removed my stern drive, and transom assembly off of the Carver, and this morning I steam cleaned all of the parts and started getting things ready for the re build. I'm putting new bellows, gaskets, lower and upper pins, bearings, and seals in the used transom assembly. I'm also going to paint all of the parts with Acrylic Urethane paint while I have everything apart.
I've made a list of parts I think I need but I'm still going to put the transom assembly in a box and bring it down to the local

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

marine repair shop and have him do a parts take off and order what I need. Once I get everything back, I think I can have it all back together and back on the boat in two days time.
While I'm waiting on my parts to come in, I'll paint the stern drive and transom assembly. I'm also going to give the boats bright work a couple of coats of urethane, and some general cleaning. At the end of last season, I purchased a galvanic isolator that needs to be installed along with a new cranking battery and two batteries for the house. In three weeks time, I should be ready to splash her.
Harvest Moon has been a good boat for me, but I'm going to throw a for sale sign on her this season. I need the money from the sale to buy some parts for the yacht. While I dread being boat less for a season, I'm going to commit to launching the yacht for

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

the 2012 boating season.
The shop is about as full as it can get with having Harvest Moon in my working bay. I've always like the size of Harvest Moon, and to be honest with you, it's been plenty of boat for us with 28' LOD, and her 10' beam. But seeing Harvest Moon sitting next the the yacht, motivates me that much more to get the yacht done and love all that space I'm going to have.
I painted the the new transom assembly and stern drive today. I'm going to give them a day or so to cure, then I'll assemble everything this weekend. Hopefully, I'll have her out of the shop by the middle of the week. I'm starting to have some withdrawal fr

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

om not working on the yacht, and I'm anxious to get Harvest Moon back in the water.

 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:46:52 | 显示全部楼层
Cabin Foam

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

While waiting for parts for the Carver boat, I finished foaming the hull. I used 1800 board feet of material to foam the forward hull area, and I'd guess I have a net of 2+ inches on average, maybe closer to 3". As you can see from the pictures, I foamed down to the water line. I did not want to foam below the water line, but I did add insulating beads into my paint to try to minimize condensation below the water line. I did not have enough to foam the anchor chain locker, so I'm going to buy a small 200 board foot kit to foam that area. I was really not ready to foam the anchor locker as I've yet to paint the floor of the chain locker with a rubberized product. I think something like bed liner is what I'll be using to coat the chain locker floor.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I will probably also fiberglass over the foam in the chain locker to help protect the foam from getting destroyed by the chain.
I decided to wire the boat after the foaming as I was not too keen on burying wire in the foam. I know I'll have a little bit of a fight getting conduits and wire in now that the foam is in place, but I did spend a day gluing cleats to the hull in strategic spots so I'd be able to attached wires, water lines, hydraulic lines and conduits. My plan as of now, is to keep all my electrical stuff up in the ceilings, and all my water and hydraulic lines lower in the hull below the water line. I'm going to try and use conduit as much as possible, but I'm not opposed to stapling some wires to the framing. My biggest concern is to protect everything and be aware as to not run a screw through any wire as I finish the interior.
I'm going to foam the anchor locker myself. I'm too far into the fo

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

am to bring in a contractor to do such a small job as the chain locker, but I will not do the wheel house and salon myself. I'll be bringing in a contractor to finish those areas some time next year. While I'm foaming the chain locker, I'm going to foam the engine side of the engine room door. Right now, the engine room door is my weak link in sound deadening, and with a foam job( or left over rock wool), and some sort of liner, I think I'll be able to quadruple it's sound rating. I'll have a little engineering involved in keeping the door's grease fittings accessible, but I'm not to worried about figuring that one out. My main goal with the engine room door is to give it the ole college try and see what I can do about minimizing sound transmission. If you look at the picture of the engine room door, you can see how thick that wall has become...thick with insulation ( about 7").
The difference in the hull is amazing now that the foam is in. Not only is it much more quiet, the temperature difference is much more noticeable. Once I close things up with the hatch and port lights, I doubt I'll be able to hear any outside noise.
I purchased my foam from www.betterenergy.com, and I was totally happy with the service I got from Michael.

 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:49:06 | 显示全部楼层
Water tanks: fill pipes, vent lines, and manifolds

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I have eight water tanks under the sole of the forward cabins. The total capacity of the tanks is about 380 gallons. I guess I'll find out for sure what the capacity is once I fill all of them and begin using water. But for right now, I'm sticking with the story of 380 gallons in eight stainless steel tanks.
Because I have 8 tanks I decided to connect all the tanks together via the supply line feeding the fresh water pump. I installed a gate valve at each tank giving me the ability to isolate any one of the eight tanks. I would hate to have a water leak in one tank, and have that leak drain all the tanks. If I do develop a tank problem, I want to be able to isolate it quickly then deal with it on my terms and time. In order to totally isolate the tanks on the suction side, I had to be able to isolate them on the vent and fill side too. Manifolds were the easiest way I could think to accomplish what I had to do.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

My deck fill line is 1 1/2" that manifolds to 1" that will fill each tank. I used 1" PVC ball valves and pressure fittings to build the manifolds.
My vent lines are 1/2" leaving the tank, then bush up to 3/4" tube witch goes into 3/4 ball valves, then into a 1" manifold. 1" stainless steel welded into the deck with a goose neck completes the vent. Again, I used PVC ball valves and pressure fittings for all the fittings.
My suction line feeding my pump is 3/4" wire reinforced tube rated for food service. All the ball valves on the suction line are 3/4" brass.
For the vent lines I welded 1" stainless steel into the the hull, then welded a goose neck on the vent above the deck. I epoxied 1" PVC couplers on to the 1" stainless thru hull, then bushed down to my 1" PVC manifold, bushed down to 3/4" slip x thread ball valves, threaded in 3/4" x 1/2" barbs, then went to the each tank with 1/2" tube.
The deck fill is 1 1/2" stainless deck fill bolted the the deck going into a 1 1/2" flexible PVC tubing, that leads to the 1 1/2" sch. 40 manifold.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I had to position the fill manifold ball valves so they would be flush behind the hull liner. The valve handles are easy to operate even though one is turned facing the hull sheathing. I'll have an easy to get to access port in the hull liner behind a cabinet to operate the valves if the need happens.
In some of the pictures, you can see the 1 1/2" bilge pump discharge lines plumbed next to the fill manifold. I have two 1 1/2" bilge pump discharge lines on each side of the hu

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

ll. More on that later.
All my "behind the wall" construction is done regarding my water tank fill and vent. For that matter all the work under the sole concerning the water tanks is also complete. I'm getting pretty close to start installing the finished hull liner material.

 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:50:39 | 显示全部楼层
The devil's in the detail
I thought I was pretty much wrapped up with the wiring and plumbing to the point of where I could begin installing the Cherry plywood on the hull sides and partitions.
I was looking at the route of one of my water tank fill lines on the starboard side, and started to get concerned that I was making things a little too tight in regard to the fill lines and the lines for my future air conditioning unit. I decided to re route one of the water tank fill line to give me, what I consider, barely enough room to route the two cooling lines for my AC unit. Out comes the hole saw so I can create an 1 1/2" bore through frame #8. Hole sawing complete, so now I have to de-burr the hole, put a couple of layers of epoxy primer, give the primer a day to set up, then top coat with a couple lay

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

ers of acrylic enamel. That little hole slowed things up a minimum of one day.
I also was looking at the steel door jamb of the engine room door, and somehow the bright white door jamb was not going to look so good next to the ever darkening Cherry interior. I decided to paint the door jamb brown to make things "flow" a little smoother as far as the eye was concerned. I had some left over acrylic urethane from another project, and while it could have been a little lighter in shade, I have formally called it good enough.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I picked up a few hundred #12 1 1/2 brass wood screws from Fastenal today, and barring any more nit picking, I should begin some finishing work after the holiday weekend.

 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:52:17 | 显示全部楼层
Finish lumber

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I got a decent start this weekend on getting some finish lumber installed in the master cabin. I'm using Cherry veneer plywood for the hull sides and partitions in the master cabin, and a lesser quality ( maybe Birch) for the head, hallway, and kids bunk room.
While I still think the engine room's steel door jamb could have been a few shades lighter, I'm happy as to how it looks vs the white I had initially painted the jamb. Looking at in in this picture, I must say I think it works fine.
I'm using #12 1 1/2" brass wood screw to fasten all the plywood. I have a Fuller tapered drill set that does a nice job countersinking for the screw and boring for the wood bung all in one pass. I've used some cheaper tools for this type of work, and in my opinion the cheaper stuff is junk and not worth ones time messing with. If I'd have to guess, I'd guess I've used 150 screws t

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

o install the master cabin panels, and most of those will have to be plugged with bungs. I'll cut the bungs from scrap Cherry lumber, then part them on the table saw. I'll probably use a sharp chisel to pare the bung down close, then finish sand the bung with a DA sander to get it flush. I'm a little worried about glue stains, but I think if I wipe each bung after tapping it home with a damp cloth, I should keep glue staining to a minimum. I'm using a 1/4" x 1 1/4" batten to cover all the butt joints, so I won't have to bung those screws.
I scribed then I belt sanded to the scribe line on all the panels are perpendicular to another panel. I'm happy with how the fit and finish has turned out as a playing card wont' fit in any of those perpendicular joints.
I used a lower grad plywood where the bed is going because I thought I might be a sheet short. Turns out I was fine on how much material I used, but I'm not complaining as you won't see any of the cheaper plywood as it's behind the headboard of the bed.
Now that the master cabin space is defined, and the foam is disappearing behind that nice Cherry plywood I will now start laying out for the bed, and the various cabinets I'm going to have in the cabin. I chose to have a sink in each cabin, vs a one sink in the head. The size of the master cabin and the size of the bed make installing the cabinet for the sink the next order of business. I started looking at some layout tonight, and I might end up moving the bed aft a few inches to

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

make the pathway between the bed and the sink more comfortable. Either way, I'll buy a sink this week and mock up a cabinet install to see how it fits in relation to the bed and being able to walk past the bed. It's important for me to feel comfortable as I walk around the cabin, and two or three inches in the right spot can make all the difference in how the room feels ( in my amateur opinion).
I think I'm going to do some cabinet building in the master cabin before I begin paneling the rest of the hull ( kids bunk room, head, and hallway). I had thought I'd not be able to bung one panel on the engine room bulkhead as I might have had to remove it to get my engine control cables from the wheel house to the engine. Now I think I'll route the cables a little different than planned and won't have to remove the panel.

 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:53:41 | 显示全部楼层
Home Grown

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

Every time I do a clearing job and have the ability to take some Cherry trees, I bring them to my neighbor, and he saws them into lumber for me. I have two stacks this size of Cherry that's been air drying in the loft of the shop for a few years , and it's time I finally get to use some of it.
If I were to guess, I'd guess that I have well over a thousand board feet stashed away in the barn. It's a good feeling to finally be able to use some of this fine lumber and get on with some finish wood working.
Even though this is not perfectly clear lumber one might find in a wood workers supply house, I do get quite a bit of interesting looking grain including curly and birds eye. I try to be keep a close eye on things when I'm pulling a piece out of the pile, but until you run it through the planer, its always a mystery how it will look once planed. I love the straight grained clear lumber, but I also love the wild crotch grain or the funky look you get from the birds eye grain. Cherry has always been my favorite wood to work with. It machines well, glues and holds a screw great, and I love how it darkens with age.
Going the rough sawn lumber route is a little more work for me, but the price is right. I love not having to head off to the lumber supply house and I for sure love the fact that I'm keeping more cash in my pocket.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造


 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:55:57 | 显示全部楼层
Port Light Trim

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

Making the trim rings for the port lights was a fun job. A few design issues on how best to cover the plywood paneling with the trim ring was the only real snafu on this project, but once the bugs were figured out, they went together pretty quickly.
I had to do a little searching to find some 10" wide stock to make the trim ring or else I'd be faced with having to edge glue some boards together to get the width I wanted.
The first step was to make a template of th

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

e trim ring. I made the template out of some 1/2" Cherry scrap plywood.
I used the template to mark the stock, then rough cut the ring on my band saw.
I then screwed the rough trim ring to the template, and routed it to match the template with a flush trimming bit.
Since the trim ring is screwed to the plywood paneling, I had to hide the edge of the plywood by extending the inner form of the trim ring by 1/2". I cut some pieces to

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造


 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:57:19 | 显示全部楼层
shape on the band saw, glued them to the trim ring, then used the router to cut them flush once the glue cured.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

The next step was to round everything over with a 3/8 radius rounding bit
Before I had installed the plywood paneling I had glued a closed cell gasket to the port light frame to prevent sweating. Once the paneling was in place, the paneling compressed the gasket against the port light frame. Now that the trim ring is installed, the trim ring also compr

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

esses the gasket due to the 1/2" ring extension I glued to the inner form of the trim ring. I feel that condensation on the port light frames will be a non issue.
In this last picture you can see how I laminated the extension piece on to the trim ring to hide the plywood edge. The last piece of the port light window frame condensation issue will be pretty straight forward I think. I'll need to find a piece of rubber channel to fit over the 3/16" frame edge prior to me installing the glass. Once that last edge ( witch you can see in the last picture) is covered, I doubt very much I'll get any condensation on th

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

e window frame. I might get some sweating on the glass, but none on the frame. The last thing I want is staining on the wood from sweating metal. The trim ring will come off when Install the glass witch should be later this Winter. I like not having the glass in so I can hear the radio I have down in the shop.

 楼主| 发表于 2015-6-27 23:59:57 | 显示全部楼层
Bending wood
I'm still doing wood work in the master cabin, and I've been focusing in the bed.
The bed sits on a ches

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

t of drawers ( twelve drawers in total). Because our sink is in the master cabin, the walking path between the bed and sink needed to be "just so" in order for me to feel comfortable walking between the two. I moved the bed aft off the center line about 7 inches. The other design feature I wanted to build into the bed was having radius corners at the foot board to help navigate between the sink and the bed. It's amazing how more comfortable it is to walk past a radius corner vs a right angle corner. This, like other projects on the boat, is a fight for inches.
My first inclination was to cut multiple kerfs in the radius pieces to achieve the bend. Because one will see those kerf cuts, I de

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

cided not to go that route. I decided to laminate multiple pieces together and bend them around a form.

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

I re sawed stock into 1/8" staves to get the pieces I would need to do the laminating. I had problems cold bending the staves so I decided to steam bend them with a thrown together steamer and steam box.
I built the steamer out of a piece of squa

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

re tubing witch I fabricated a base, a lid, and a nipple to accept a piece of radiator hose. The steam box was built out of duct tape and some old 2" rigid insulation I had laying around. I drilled some 1/4" holes in the side of the box to insert welding rods to make shelv

拖网渔船建造

拖网渔船建造

es for the lumber to sit on. My wife's meat thermometer put a high tech look to the whole contraption.
Once the box got up to 212 degrees, it only took about 20 minutes for the wood to act like a piece of rubber. I had to work quick to get the glue on then get the pieces bent around the form. Another person sure would have been handy, but I managed to pull it off.

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