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　　The piston work's the same way except the solenoid will lock the piston out so it can't be pushed in. It still has a very strong spring in there, that it would be very hard to get into reverse while driving. It's almost as hard as crashing thought the gate when the reverse lockout solenoid is ingauged.

　　Now I have alot more room for the drivers seat to move forward better.

　　

　　I made 2 cuts with a mini body saw. That took off the piston housing. I left a little meat thickness on there so that I could tig welded a thick cover over the piston bore without distortion. It all took about an 2 hours to do this setup.

　　Ken H you may want to do this sometime!

　　

　　This solenoid is huge!

　　

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　　This photo (below) is the other end of the piston that was cut off and the sleeve retainer for the spring. I did cut off a little over a coil on the large spring. The small spring was still used to center the piston in the bore. So I drilled into the piston a small hole on the cut side that I made, then drilled a small hole into the cover cap. This way the small spring would be centered in the piston shaft and the cover cap. Took a C-clam and assembled together, then intalled the snap ring back in.

　　

　　All 3 photo's above is what I didn't use.

　　The photo below is with the revese lockout cap installed. So I made a plate to cover this without any protrusion sticking out. I flatened the aluminum first. Now my seat moves back and forth real good.

　　

　　Got my 240sx e-brake cables installed, and they work good. I'm going to install tubes so that the cables won't ware out at the bracket slots.

　　

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　　Was able to get this shifter knob on with a little reaming inside the knob to thread it on.

　　

　　This is the new cold air intake setup with the Mass Air flow sensor intalled ,and Idle air temp sensor.

　　

　　A different photo angle.

　　

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　　It's tight but it fit's snug in there

　　

　　Photo of the bung that needed to be tig welded in for the Idle Air Temp sensor.

　　

　　This cold air intake will not get heat from the radiator now, like the little air cleaner right in front of radiator. The only thing I might be worried about is water getting in the air filter. It will also get a ton more air through the cone filter.

　　The shifter knob is for a Ford Mustang T56. Had to ream out alot of material inside the knob to make it fit on my short shifter. I found the knob on some website in Florida. It's Mustang site.

　　The intake fittings, found this site... I found everything here except the K&N filter. The filter was from Sumit Racing. The flex hose I think you are refering to is a reducing Hump hose from 3 1/2 " to 4" dia. So parts used ....

　　1) 3 1/2 X 4" reducer 90* (for connection to the throtle body/ Maf).

　　1) 3 1/2 X 4" hump hose reducer ( for connection incoming Maf sensor).

　　1) 7 1/2" 4" aluminum tube

　　1) 4" 90* Rubber

　　1) 2 1/2" X 4" aluminum tube(for filter connection).

　　5) 4" T-bolt clamps.

　　2) 3 1/2" t-bolt clamps.

　　Brenda has only rode around the block sitting on the passenger floor boards without a seat and so was I (LOL) holding on for dear life. It was a hoot. You know you are car nuts if both your wife and you do this. We are never to old!

　　Took off the original ls6 intake, and 78mm throtle body off the engine. When my wife and I went to Sema show, talked with Tony Mamo (AFR booth), and purchased one of his used ported Fast 90mm intake/90mm Nick Williams throtle body. So it all came in the mail, and I got it all installed the other day.

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　　A photo of the new setup,and gained some hp with this setup. This engine is getting alot of air through it now.The intake will out flow a Fast 102mm intake. Tony really opened up this intake. The engine picks up faster and has better throtle response.

　　

　　Today, have been working on the electric windows hardware. This was fairly easy to install. I hooked up a small battery to the wiring harness, and checked for clearance operation. The window goes up fast + down fast.

　　The window is down in this photo. Closely checked for anything that might bind.

　　

　　Closer photo of how the system workes on the window crank shaft. I had to drill a small hole in the end of the shaft, + tap for a small screw to hold on the parts. The mounting brackets, drilled holes for screws with screw clips on the back side of the door.

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　　The opening off to the right in the door, should have enough room to install the window switch in the door panel, and have clearance for the switch on the back side going into the door hole.

　　

　　Did the same on the electric motor side for mounting.

　　

　　Used a template( that came with the kit ) to draw the square hole on the panel, for the window switch, after measuring where is should go to fit the door. Used my small cut off wheel to cut the board, then used a sharp blade to cut for the corners. Pulled out the board, then used the sharp blade to cut the material on the back side. Drilled the small holes in the board for the scews. Pulled the wiring though the hole and screwed all four screws in to secure the switch panel in (There is 2 switches on the driver side , and one switch on the passenger side).

　　

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　　This is what the other side looks like with the switch panel installed.

　　

　　A photo to give you the idea of the location on the panel.

　　

　　Photo of the panel on the door. I will need to cut about a 1" hole where the window crank handle use to be ( You can see the window crank pushing on the material ), and there will be a black cap that will go over it.

　　You can see the contact strip with four buttons on it in the door jam, those will be used for the four wires for a passthrough for the door. So the electric window will work when the door is closed. I won't have to deal with wires breaking using the contact strip.

　　Still need to install the door pulls in the panel.

　　

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　　Had the center dash brace covered to match the lighter color. Will have two toggle switches, one on the left, one on the right. Then inbetween there will be four different indicator led lights that are very small. Rectangle hole is for the pop out screen, gps, sat, radio sound system. There will be 6 speakers in all.

　　You can't see but on the center section on the sides, close to the face, there is 3/4" holes on both sides for the seat heater switches. Also will have phone charger resepticles on both sides.

　　

　　Some photo's of how the interior is coming along with speakers in the back panel.

　　

　　The carpet is installed (Wool carpet) with the original underlay underneath.

　　

　　You can see the aluminum sheel that was used behind the panel.

　　

大鸟

太给力了！强啊