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Rear Sway bar mounts fabed out of angle iron. Still can adjust sway bar and disk brake adapters from Don Watson can fit underneath or on top I think either way using e-brake setup.






The sway bar is higher up mounted here than if mounted in the spring hole...about 2 to 21/2" below frame. There isn't any obstuctions in the way for the U-bolts to attach for frame mount.


Updates on rear disk brakes and caliper painting.
1. Used 1987 (after March 87) Nissan Maxima brake bracket and caliper(eailer than march has less parts inside caliper).
2.Used 1992 240sx rotor. On the inner hole that goes over the hub...had to take off about 68 thousands...I just took old drum and the rotor to someone that had a lathe...match for hub size.Took a small wheel grinder to the inside of the rotor to clean it up so it would clear the outside diameter of the hub.

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3. The bracket that came with the Maxima caliper...for the e-cable...was pointing upward towards the body. I took a bracket that came off a 240sx caliper and installed it on the maxima caliper. This changed the direction how the e-cable went from the caliper.
It ended up going towards the differential.
4. Used the 240sx e-brake cable.
5. Rebuilt both Maxima calipers.
Note: Maxima calipers have a bigger piston than the 240sx calipers.
Pictures show parts that were changed off the caliper.
New lowering springs all the way around . The other ones would have made it look like a 4 wheel drive. I don't suggest purchasing HD springs at stock height. It will elevate your car about an inch.
All calipers painted by hand with caliper paint. This with make it easier to keep them clean looking.
Rear sway bar mount on frame.
Still waiting for CV/axles from Good Parts.

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More pictures.






Did a litle bending on the bracket for the cable alignment.Plenty of clerance all around.


Don Watson's brackets saved me tons of time not having to mic it out and take to a machine shop. I could have made these myself...have about 8 years of machining under my belt...but don't have access to any cnc milling machines.


More pictures.

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OK ....Picture shows rear stock height HD spring on left from TRF...RGoods HD lowering spring on right.
A NO brainer for me which one will give you better handling car....Go 4 wheeling look or nice sports car look.
These are the back springs in these pictures below...In the morning the front will go in...with the LS1 and transmission in the frame and mounted...the suspension was all the way up...I was standing on the front of the frame bar before the steering rack was on and moving it up and down with my weight.... barley could get the suspension to go down. I weight 212. Thats just not right or this LS1 engine is way lite.
I believe the front will go down where it needs to be with RGoods front springs.

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I have had these (rear) TR6 comp springs since late 70s and never installed them..the kind that are not finished at one end (cut to length type).... In the picture below next to standard TRF HD (rear springs). Standard TR6 spring (rear) and the TRF HD (rear) spring will give about an 1" higher ride because of being HD in the TR6.


This picture shows that the comp springs are larger diameter. Comp spring is 4" 290 diameter. The spring thickness is 600 thousands. The TRF is 560 thousands (spring thickness)and diameter of almost 4" or 3" 967 tho. Rgoods front spring is 536 thousands thick and diameter of 4" 70 thousands.
I also have a full set of stock front and back springs for the TR6. I did at one time stand the TRF and stock spring together and they are the same height.

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I had to take out the differential to intstall the new CV axles. Took a drill at fast rpm with a 4" dia 80 grit sandpaper wheel,cleaned out the trail arm axle hole, so CV axle wouldn't touch...a very close tolerance. Also had to use a dremel tool with mini grinding wheel, shave off washer and allen bolt, that held on CV boot cover. Drilled out new hub to 3/8ths for trailing arm hub studs. They came with 5/16ths holes.


After cleaning out. Did not touch where the hub seats into trailing arm.


Before cleaning out.

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Can see the difference in stock hub to the CV hub. The allen bolts that secured the CV boot were ground down to match the diameter of the CV housing. This eliminated the majority of the rubing inside the trailing arm.
Don W ,...the hub will go all the way into the trailing arm passed the brake brackets. Good to have the hub inside the trailing arm instead of the brake bracket only.


By the looks of this hub, it was a 5 bolt pattern made into a 4 bolt pattern. One on the stud holes were drilled out for tighening hub nut with socket.


Don't need to use the adapter with the CV axles. Made for the 5 bolt and 6 bolt pattern of the R200 differential.

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The 2 stainless steel 3/8ths fuel line and return sticking out. Need to finish installing high pressure inline fuel pump with before and after fuel filters that are inline also. Need to feed the Ls1 with high pressure lines, no barbed fitting or hoses. Will be using all AN fittings.


As seen here a very tight fit, maybe about 100 thousands clearance.




I like this better than the stock axles. I feel more confident now with the all that has been done in this area ( coil overs, disk brakes, CV axles, lowering springs, Goodrich braded brake lines, and rear adjustable sway bar). The over all difference in weight was about 3 pounds heavier. I can live with that.The rotor on the floor needs the 2 hold down screw holes drilled and the other side rotor also.
*Note: Don't have the Goodrich braded brake lines installed when you do any welding on your frame. They will ground out. Yes I did fry one of them, got smoking red hot. I did replace the smoker. Was welding and smelled something burning, not a normal welding smell, took face sheald off and saw the line glowing pretty good, my remark "new one coming up".

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I recieved your PM with questions? Maybe I can answer some of those questions here for you.
"Yes" the T56 transmission in a loooong one. I figured the shifter would be set back about 10 (corection 8 1/4" ) inches from stock (shifter handle). I found a part that I just recieved in the mail yesterday that will help that measurement a little. Taking where I positioned the Ls1 in the engine bay. I used Corvette dampaner instead of the Camaro dampaner pullies. I was able to move the engine forward another 1"1/2 closer to the steering rack mount bar. The front Corvette dampaner pully is 1/2" away from the steering rack frame bar. I wanted belt clearance, for changing belt for later use.
The Transmission mounting bracket from the 74 TR6 is stock, mounted to the T56 using the original rubber mount(One bolt) from the Camaro fit perfectly. It used the back 2 holes in the stock frame mount of the TR6. No modifications at all.
The stock oil pan 2002 Camaro I used, was 1/2 inch below frame crossmember. My hood will clear the engine with no cutting of the hood. Ken H didn't need to cut his hood either I believe. He just did it for more air flow.
I have some pictures that Ken H sent me that I'm sure he wouldn't mind if I posted here of the same thoughts I had (shifter handle).

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I found this shifter relocater on the site above about half way down the page in the middle. It moves the shifter location 4'' and 1/8th forward which would make that about 6' (corection 4") back from stock. This would be liveable for me.


This is Kens car with seats in. He is running the T56 also. I have the 2002 T56 and he has the 1994 T56 using a slave cylinder for clutch. The 2002 just has a braded line attached at the side of case.
Ken had to move the E-brake back a little as I will also, not a problem.
I think with the shifter relocater, mine will be a little closer to the dash than Kens.
I will post some more when I get back. Need to pick up Brenda from the office today. "soon"
Calvin